Opening Credits:
Stella—Another one... And you go all the way around your saguaro
and see the... get the ripe ones.
In the Museum:
Stella—Yea, this culture is dying. It's like I said, nobody's keeping
it up. There's so much out there in the desert, you know.
Visitor—Which one?
Stella—There's so much food out in the desert that we used to eat.
And our people, our young generation, are not, you know, going out there
now, you know, to appreciate it.
Stella—So, I think this year’s gonna' be a good harvest.
Visitor—The drought is actually...
Stella—Even though the drought, yea.
Visitor—...it's in your favor.
Stella— That’s right.
Outside:
Stella—When we go do our saguaro harvest we have many saguaros to
go to. So when we come up to a saguaro we usually try to walk around and
find the right ones, and the right ones will be the red ones that you see
up here. And I see, let me see, one ripe one right here and, I don’t
know, my pole can reach the one way at the top. But usually the ones we can’t
reach we leave for the birds. But I don’t think my pole will reach,
so I’ll get this one right here. This one right here. And our pole
is made out of two saguaro ribs, as you can see. And the top part, which
we call our hook is made out of greasewood branch. There’s another
one over here. We use greasewood, creosole branch because it’s much
stronger than the saguaro ribs. And sometimes you can’t, oh! That’s
great! Sometimes you can’t help but knock some of the green ones. But
that’s okay because the more green ones you knock down the fruit ripens
quicker. The other fruit. Another one, and you go all the way around your
saguaro, and see the right, get the right ones. Okay, I’ve knocked
all my red ones down, so let me get my pole. I got it caught on here. I’ll
lay my saguaro rib right there. Now some of them the birds have already gotten
to. In fact, all of them. So we don’t have any fruit to show you. But
these, there’s no fruit, all the birds—that’s okay, they
have to eat too! But let me show you how we pick our fruit. See, when there
is a fruit like this, okay, we’ll pretend there is a fruit inside,
all you have to do is break this little stem off and you cut your fruit with
it. It’s got, comes with it’s own knife and you open it up, pretend
there’s lots of fruit in there. But there’s no fruit and your
fruit would be inside of here—like a strawberry. I think I got --,
oh, this is, another one here, see there’s no fruit. Oh, here’s
one. No, they're all no fruit. But this is the way we pick our fruit in the
desert.
Visitor—And it looks like a strawberry?
Stella—Yeah, when it’s fresh.
Visitor—And then what do you do next?
Stella—Then you’ll put it in your bucket. You’ll put your
fruit in your bucket and you’ll throw your pods on the ground and leave
it for the birds or the coyotes. They’ll come and eat it.
Visitor—Are the doves the ones that eat it?
Stella—The doves will go up there and eat all of them.
Visitor—Do other birds eat them too or just…?
Stella—Oh yeah. Cactus wrens are out there. We have woodpeckers. And
what other birds do we have? All kinds of birds. I can’t remember all
of them now, but… And that’s our saguaro picking and we do this
everyday. Llike morning, we have our picking early in the morning when it’s
cool and, uh, take our bucket and our pick and we go out there and we don’t
bring the peel home. All we bring is fruit home. We cook that and that probably
makes two jars of syrup. So you can see that it doesn’t make very much
when you pick fruit. You have to go out there everyday to pick the fruit.
Visitor—You don’t put any sugar in it?
Stella—No, it’s all natural. There’s no sugar added to
it.
Visitor—And it stays that beautiful color?
Stella—Yes, they all have different colors. There’s some that
are so pretty, real bright violet looking colors. And then some are dark
and, like the ones that are dried, they will fall to the ground and, you
know, you can pick right off the ground the dried ones. And then sometimes
they’re in the saguaro and all you have to do is just hit it and they
just fall. You just kinda touch them and they all fall. And some of them
are very stubborn too. Some won’t come down you have to kinda fight
with it.
Visitor—Do they come down all in one piece? Or is it goo? What
is the fruit like? Is it just one thing, like a plum or a strawberry?
Stella—It’s whole, like a strawberry inside. And some of them,
they all come in different sizes too. Just like strawberries. And some of
them are small and some are huge.

Harvested Saguaro fruit.
Photo by Helga Teiwes.
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Visitor—Someone said you could dry them and eat them.
Stella—Yeah. Well, you pick them dried. You can’t take the fresh
ones and lay them out to dry. They dry in the pods, or they dry up there
on the saguaro and they fall to the ground. But you can’t take a fresh
fruit and dry it. You have to cook it the same day when you pick it or if
you have a cooling place like, we’re out in the desert and we don’t
have, all we have is ice chests to keep them cool. We have to cook it everyday
to make our syrup and our jams.
Visitor—Do you separate the seeds out or do you just put that in?
Stella—We separate them after our first cooking. We separate them.
We lay them out in the sun and then we take the juice that we’ve dipped
from the first cooking and we lay the fiber and the seed out in the sun to
dry. And then we screen. We pour the first cooking juice into a cheese cloth
into another pot. And that you put back over the fire and that will cook
down to serve. And it takes three-to-four hours to cook, so our morning pick
we start working on our syrup because we know it’s going to be an all
day thing. And by the time it’s done -- by 4 o’clock, 5:30 --
we’re ready to go out and do the evening pick. So this is repeated
day-after-day, and we do this everyday because when the rains come it destroys
the fruit. We can’t pick anymore after the rains have come. It destroys
the fruit.
Visitor—Does the jam need any refrigeration?
Stella—No, not after its cooked. You just jar them and put them on
your shelf. They will last up to two years. Look at the big egg thing you
saw. That’s 50 years old. So you can imagine how long the dried fruit
will last.
Visitor—So those seeds you took out at the first cooking, is that
no value to you?
Stella—No. No, we use everything. You know, we don’t throw anything
away. Everything’s used. The fiber is used to put back in the jam,
it’s a thickener and the seeds we grind up and use for porridge. You
feed it to the chickens or the doves or the birds.
Visitor—I’ve tasted the syrup from the prickly pear fruit.
Is it the same?
Stella—No, no.
Visitor—Can you describe it?
Stella—The Saguaro fruit is much sweeter than the prickly pear. And
I think the Prickly Pear, when they make jam out of it, they put pectin in
it and sugar, so it’s not natural.
Visitor—What is the stick wound with? Is that just regular twine?
Stella—No that’s bailing wire. Yeah, it’s something strong.
I’ve gone out there and it’s broke on me, so I had to go back
to home and tie it back together. That’s all it is, is two saguaro
ribs together and creosole.
Visitor—Well, I really want to try it.
Stella—Okay.
Visitor—I’m gonna try it at my house.
Stella—Oh. I thought you were going to try it here?
Visitor—How do you do the wine? After the first cooking?
Stella—The syrup. We make wine out of the syrup.
Visitor—But you take it through the regular process then just leave
it in the pots or…?
Stella—Mm-hmm.
Visitor—What causes it to ferment?
Stella—The heat and the water. If you add wate,r or if any bit of water
touches the syrup, it ruins it. It’s so afraid of water that it --
you’ve destroyed your syrup if any water touches it.
Visitor—Could you still make wine out of the fruit?
Stella—It has to be cooked.
Visitor—Now the syrup: you can just put on a shelf and leave?
Stella—Mm-hmm. Jar it.
Visitor—And how do you cut the syrup? With how much water to then let
it ferment? One-half to one-half?
Stella—It’s like making punch.
Visitor—Okay. To that kind of consistency?
Stella—Mm-hmm.
Visitor—So almost three-quartered. Ferment for how long?
Stella—Well till you taste it. Ya' know how your wine tastes? It’s
got that nice sweet, tangy taste to it. Like, everyday when I cook my syrup
I rinse it out -- my pot -- cause, ya' know, the syrup still sticks to it.
Rinse it out, and I put it in a jar.
Visitor—And that ferments?
Stella—And I want to make wine out of it so we don’t waste anything.
Visitor—You can’t ever buy saguaro wine.
Stella—No.
Visitor—You can buy the syrup occasionally. Well, once in a while at
the trading post just as you go on Coyote Hills.
Stella—They sell some?
Visitor—They have in the past.
Stella—Well then, you could probably buy some there.
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